Congratulations! You’re contributing to the world’s oxygen supply and planting a tree …but where do you put it, how deep should the hole be, can you replace an existing tree, what else do you need to know?
Don’t worry, we’re here to help!
There are lots of things that you need to know before you plant a tree, not just that you need to dig a hole. The city requires you to ‘call before you dig’ to make sure that you don’t dig into any important pipes or wires.
It may seem like a hassle, but I guarantee you, if you dig into a gas pipe or hydro line, both hassle and cost to you are increased two fold. You could potentially injure yourself or someone else, incur costly repairs and even a law suit…it’s not worth the risk.
Call to make arrangements 1-800-400-2255
Once you call the city, they will have someone come out to mark your garden with spray paint and flags to let you know where the pipes and wires are. Don’t stress about the paint, it grows out, and it allows you to dig with confidence knowing that you’re not going to destroy anything.
If you’re planning on removing an old tree in order to replace it with a younger version, check with your city bylaws to make sure that you are permitted to cut the tree down. There are certain trees that are protected, trees of a certain dimension which can’t be cut down, as well many cities are attempting to preserve endangered bird species, so you’ll need to ensure that there are no nests in your tree.
So, now that you’ve done your due diligence; you’re ready to dig. Here’s where you consider your soil type. There are certain allowances that need to be made for clay soil, but we can get to those in a moment.
Let’s start with all other soil types.
One tip for watering is to actually fill the hole with water ‘before’ you plant the tree, and let it drain into the ground ‘before’ you plant the tree.
There are plenty of plants and trees that flourish in clay soil, but it’s a good idea to know both your soil type and your tree’s preference before you plant.
And there you have it, your tree is planted! Now you can sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labour. Quite literally if you’ve planted a fruit tree.
Need assistance with your garden design, planning and suggestions? A Garden Design will save you time, stress and money, giving you a project plan to follow as well as a design created to your needs that can be quoted by landscapers.
For any questions please call us at 9054687863 or email firstname.lastname@example.org
We are here to assist in your garden experience from Dream to Enjoyment!
Let’s GROW something Beautiful!
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Well, one way to look at it is like this. If you need your teeth fixed, most of us wouldn’t try and fix them or improve them ourselves. The same applies to your garden, and while it may seem counter intuitive, you can actually save more when you use a landscaper, than when you try and do it yourself (much of the time).
Even though we’ve all heard of the expression “measure twice, and cut once”, how many of us have had to return to the hardware store to replace a miss-cut piece of wood, or other home renovation item? Hardscape materials are often one of the biggest expenses in a garden design, and error reduction related to measurement and correct placement are all considerations that a professional landscaper will manage and cover. Not to mention, getting the right material, for the right price.
But if your hardscape needs aren’t at the top of your priority list, a reputable garden designers & landscaper also know where in your garden to place your much loved trees, shrubs and plants; knowing exactly where things should go based on the sun / shade factor, as well as giving a creative flare to the overall look of your garden.
Creativity is one of the factors often overlooked by consumers when committing to hiring a landscaper. An expert garden designer like those at Mori Gardens will use your needs, garden uses and interests through consultation to create a design you can bring to a landscaper for quoting and instillation or Mori Gardens can use to oversee your project with a recommended landscaper.
When using your ideas or design, great landscapers not only provide expertise, know how, and brawn, they also have a creative flair that can turn your property from an average garden design, to one which makes the neighbours ‘green’ with envy (if that’s your thing). They have years of experience working in a variety of different landscapes, and can probably offer something to your property that you may not even have thought about.
One of the real plusses to hiring a landscaper is the savings of time. In today’s hectic world, who couldn’t use a few more minutes or hours a week? On top of garden design and sheer heft, landscapers can maintain that newly installed garden to free up your precious time to do other ‘more important’ things, all at the same time as keeping your garden fresh looking and perfectly manicured.
Book an appointment with an award winning Mori Gardens Designer and Garden Expert, and use your design and suggestions to receive quotes from a landscaper or as a project plan for yourself.
Now, if all of those things haven’t convinced you to hire a landscaper for either your next garden project or the maintenance of property, let’s look at the return on investment (ROI) for landscaping your property.
In terms of hard numbers, if you put approximately 5 to 10 percent of your property value into landscaping, your return will be a conservative 150%, according to a variety of home renovation specialist including HGTV’s John Gidding.
It should come as no surprise that curb appeal has a value. Nor should it shock that in today’s real estate market, any advantage that you can get to increase the value of your property is one worth taking. The professional garden designer & landscaper, are more than a guy who cuts your lawn, they’re your property enhancement allies!
Get an expert opinion on design & landscaping options and tips. Book an appointment with an award winning Mori Gardens Designer and Garden Expert, and use your design and suggestions to receive quotes from a landscaper or as project planning for yourself.
Looking for a reference for a landscaper?
Boy, does this hot weather make one thirsty! Here at the Garden Centre, we’re always checking on each other to make sure we’re drinking enough water as we spend the day out in the sun. Just like we need more fluids on a hot day, our plants also require more to drink. Did you know that on a hot day, a mature shade tree can take up as much as 100 gallons of water out of the soil? And almost as quickly as a plant is taking up all this water, it’s losing this moisture from the leaf surfaces through transpiration.
If you’re like me, most of us will attempt to water our plants as we’re rushing out the door in the morning on the way to work, or out running errands. If the plant is lucky, it may receive a quick 20 to 30 second spritz, a friendly pat on the head and is left to fend for itself for the rest of the long, hot day. This is the equivalent of sucking on an ice cube and then being parched until the sun goes down. Here are a few simple ways to water wisely.
It’s the most obvious strategy, of course, but to stay healthy, most lawns like an inch of mositure per week and garden plants require much more. As a rule of thumb 1-inch of water penetrates the soil by three inches. If a tree has roots when planted that are 12 inches deep, it will need 4 inches of water on the surface to reach all the way down. (Your sprinkler won’t be enough when it’s a heat wave)
Make sure to give deep watering over frequent watering. It’s a bit of a waste to give your plants less water more frequently: Doing so discourages the roots from growing as deeply into the soil (where it stays moister longer) as they can, and it’s also inefficient as more water is lost to evaporation.
*Tip: To measure the amount of water your plant is getting, cut the top off a 2 liter pop bottle and put it next to your plant of choice, or use a tuna can (they’re about an inch high), every time the tuna can is filled or an inch of water has filled the pop bottle, you will have watered down by 3 inches. This is a great way to really see how far your sprinkler or a rain fall is going for your garden.
*Mike~ism: When measuring your watering, remember 15 minutes is a measurement of time, not a measurement of water. Your plants are a living thing that depend on you to survive
A 2- to 3-inch-deep layer of mulch over the soil can do wonders: It keeps the soil cooler and shields the ground from direct sun. The benefit is that moisture stays in the soil longer, where it’s more available to your garden plants.
Run a soaker hose underneath your mulch to maximize water savings: Water will be delivered directly to the ground (reducing evaporation) and slowly (reducing water loss to runoff). It will also keep plant foliage dry, which helps prevent many common fungal diseases such as black spot on roses.
If you apply fertilizers (organic or synthetic), it’s helpful to stop at the onset of a drought. Fertilizers encourage plant growth; the more a plant grows, the more moisture it needs. If fertilizer salts build up in your soil because they’re not naturally leaching out with rain or irrigation, they can build up and burn plant roots, causing further damage.
It might not be fun at the best of times, but getting those weeds out of the garden is especially important during drought. The reason: Weeds’ roots steal valuable moisture from the soil.
Removing spent blooms before they have a chance to set seed saves energy for your plants: They don’t need to put extra energy (which they need water for) into producing seeds.
Is there anything more quintessentially Canadian than the Maple tree, and its magnificent leaves? Be it the radiating red leaf of the Autumn Blaze Maple tree, or of course the national tree of Canada (in Ontario at least), the Sugar Maple tree. The maple leaf is a symbol of our unabashed patriotism, taking pride of place in the middle of our flag, emblazoned on the backs of our sports team’s jerseys, and a much sought after specimen for our gardens. And of course, the sweetest of associations for last; how many of us have taken our kids to a ‘sugar bush’, to watch Maple syrup being tapped straight from the tree into that silver metal buckets hanging on the trees, to be then made into our world famous nectar ‘Maple syrup’?
Of hardy stock, and with hundreds of cultivar, according to an Ontario Canada website some Maple trees can live upwards of 200 years, and reach heights of over 30 meters tall. Regardless of variety, images of Canadian children climbing branches, throwing the ‘keys’ (seeds) into the air to make helicopters, and jumping into a rustling piles of fall leaves, are simply part of the Canadian psyche
The cultural importance of the maple tree cannot be overstated, its historical reach extending as far back at the nineteenth century; where according to www.thecanadianencyclopedia.ca, the image of the Maple leaf was approved for use on the Ontario and Quebec coat of arms in 1868, and the Canadian coat of arms in 1921. It also took pride of place during both WWI and WWII on regimental badges and was confirmed as the official symbol of Canada in 1965.
So this Canada day, when you’re getting ready to settle down to watch the fireworks, take a look around at Canada’s very own version of ‘splendid display’, and admire the beauty of your culture, your history and your very own national tree…The Canadian Maple tree! Here at Mori Garden’s, with our extraordinary collection of over 60 different variety of maple trees, we’re celebrating Canada Day in our way; offering special prices on select maple trees, and an extra special something for clients who bring in this article.
If you see a beautiful Maple in your future, stop by and talk to one of our garden consultants; just remember these bad boys get big, and you might want help choosing the right maple for your space. There’s one for every garden!
~ From all of us at Mori Gardens
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Have a question? Contact us with the form below or call us at (905)468-7863
Moving up, moving away or downsizing, it doesn’t make much difference; you still have to sell your current home. Everyone knows, or at least are told by their realtor, that presenting the inside of your home in the best possible light is important… but what about the outside and your garden?
Forgetting the exterior of your home when selling your house in today’s real estate market can cost you thousands of dollars. People are not only looking for the house of their dreams to be well appointed on the inside, many are looking for a garden that speaks to them as well, with a place to entertain, relax, BBQ, have the kids play and the list goes on.
What does ‘your’ garden have to offer? Does it offer space, nice views? Is it small, large, contemporary, or traditional? There are so many different types of gardens and so many different ways to highlight your garden and what it has to offer. The point being, don’t’ overlook your outdoor space when you’re selling your property. In the end, a well presented garden allows buyers to see the potential in a space, it might just be the difference between a sale or not.
According to a 2015 Washington Post article, written by Jill Chodorov Kaminsky, simple things such as edging, weeding, planting inexpensive annuals and general lawn maintenance can go a long way to influencing a buyer’s desire to purchase your home.
“Curb appeal” as realtors, and home design expert call it, is priceless. It’s that intangible ‘something’ that draws you towards certain properties, making you feel connected to them before you’ve even stepped inside.
Many people selling their homes may see putting money into a garden that they’re not going to enjoy, a waste. But is it? With many experts suggesting that
your return on landscaping potentially being as high as 150 percent and up,
it almost seems silly not to.
Patios, decks, outdoor kitchens, even small water features are always a safe bet, this doesn’t include pools and hot tubs which tend to be more of a deterrent than asset when trying to sell your house. Things light lighting, sheds and stone work are all things that can increase the value of your property if done well, and will catch the eye of potential buyers, making them see the potential in your home, and wanting it to be ‘their’ new family home.
Get an expert opinion on design & landscaping options and tips to help with your homes curb appeal and value. Book an appointment with an award winning Mori Gardens Designer and Garden Expert, and use your design and suggestions to receive quotes from a landscaper or as project planning for yourself.
Looking for a reference for a landscaper.
Watering your garden while there is a drought going on can be difficult. The soil can become very dry, and that may make it difficult for water to get to where it needs to go in your garden if you aren’t watering properly. Of course one of the best options is to choose plants that are native to your area as they will grow the best, but that doesn’t always offer a nice variety of options when it comes to vegetable gardens.
If you want to grow your garden as planned while conserving water, there are a few things you can do to help your garden thrive during the drought.
Soaker hoses are the best way to go if you would like to be sure that the water you are using is getting into the soil and to your plants’ roots rather than running off. There are many varieties that can be bought in the store as well as many ways to make one yourself. You can use an old hose by poking holes every six inches and making sure that something is on the end that will block the water flow. This design will allow the water to drip out evenly. Be sure to not make the holes too large, and when the water is turned on, make sure it’s on a low setting so you allow it to drip out rather than spray out of the holes.
Collecting rain water is a great way to not only respect the earth and reuse the water it already gives us, but also an excellent option for gaining access to water during droughts. Keep a few garbage cans or other large clean barrels somewhere in your yard, especially at the ends of the gutters. These barrels will collect water when it does rain. If you live in an area where it’s common to have droughts in early summer, be sure to put those barrels out as soon as spring starts to begin collecting water. Of course this water will not be very clean, especially if it’s being run through gutters, so it will not work for drinking or cleaning, but it will work perfect in your garden during a drought.
You may find that while making dinner or doing dishes, you let the water run for a period of time while waiting for it to get hot. Why not utilize this water that is just going down the drain? Using sink basins, you can collect this water and add it to your rain barrels outside. You can also use water that was used for boiling things as it will not hurt the plants at all. Utilize any water that you may be wasting by collecting it. You could even place bins in your shower to collect water that would otherwise go down the drain.
To help your soil retain the water you are able to feed it, it’s important to mulch in as many areas as possible. Mulch will help the soil retain more water rather than allowing the sun to dry it out. You can use a variety of materials as mulch, including straw, newspaper, grass clippings, burlap bags and more. When done right, mulch can minimize weed growth and increase your yield too!
You’re not alone in the disliking cold showers or cold bathwater; plants hate cold water, too. This is especially true when they are seedlings or growing in pots where there isn’t enough soil to absorb the shock. Always water young plants with cool or tepid water, never icy cold.
Check your new transplants every day, especially if the sun is hot, the air is warm, and there is a noticeable breeze or wind. The warm air moving over the open ground will quickly absorb water, sometimes leaving the plant roots in dire straits. New transplants need soil that is evenly, constantly moist, but not soggy. When planting small peat pots directly into the soil (a practice often used with annuals that may not survive root disturbance), be sure that no part of that pot protrudes above the soil. If it does, the dry peat will act like a wick, soaking water from the soil and letting it evaporate into the air.
If you water the new plants with a watering can, turn the rose at the tip so that the holes point upward to the sky instead of down toward the earth. This minimizes soil disturbance. Finally, remember that a little bit of water is frequently worse than no water at all. When you water, do so thoroughly, letting the moisture soak into the ground where the roots need it — don’t merely wet the surface.
Mori Gardens in here for your Garden Experience from Dream to Enjoyment!
For more questions on watering or plant care please email email@example.com with our comment form below or call us at 9054687863
Pruning grape vines can be a mystery. But if you remember that all grapes produce fruit on one-year old wood, you have taken the first step towards viticulture!
Keep pruning tools sharp and clean.
Be careful not to cut off the newest year’s growth from the renewal bud. You only need one bud from that growth, but if you lose it by careless pruning, you will lose your harvest for next summer.
Noun – Compost is described as a rich, crumbly, soil-like material used for gardening
Verb – Composting is the breaking down of plant material that is no longer living, with the help of micro-organisms through a decomposition process
Understanding a few basic composting principles will help you get the best results.
If you want to produce compost that looks good enough to eat just think – Mmmmm!
If you have followed these principles, the results will be the most amazing material you could hope for to use in your garden. Compost is often referred to as “black gold”.
Anything of living plant origin can be composted, but the quality and quantity of the materials you use affects the process and determines the nutrient value of the finished compost. Here is a chart of what can and cannot be used:
|Can Be Used
Each Item should be under 20% of the total pile
|Caution – Limited Amounts
Each Item should be under 10% of the total pile
|Do Not Use
Leaves (Shred if large or waxy)
Grass Clippings (Dried first)
Reject or Soiled Produce
Fruit & Veg. Peels
Stable or Poultry Manure
Weeds that have gone to seed
Meat & Bones
Seed & Fruit Pits
Cat & Dog Manure
As mentioned in our definition of composting, decomposition only occurs with the presence of micro-organisms. Micro-organisms are small microscopic creatures that are naturally present in soil. Like most things, there are good micro-organisms and bad micro-organisms. The success of your compost pile depends upon which micro-organisms you have present. The good micro-organisms are called “aerobic” and the bad ones are called “anaerobic”.
That is why it is important to have a compost pile made of different materials that has some bulk to them and that is kept moist. When these conditions are met, the pile will naturally heat up in the centre and that is where organisms will be the most active. When only anaerobic organisms are present, that is when you have a bad odour.
|Good Compost Pile: Aerobic||Bad Compost Pile: Anaerobic|
|Ingredients:||Made from once-growing plant material||Animal Parts
Man-made synthetic parts
|Necessary Size:||Between 3’x3’x3’ to 4’x4’x4’||Under 3’x3’x3’ or over 4’x4’x4’|
|Moisture:||Evenly Moist||Too dry or too wet|
|Mixing:||As often as you can||Never|
|Other Characteristics:||Presence of earthworms
Medium sized pieces
Heats up in the middle of the pile
Contains many nutrients needed for proper plant growth
Bad rotting odour
Very slow to decompose
Too fine or too large of pieces
Does not heat up
Does not have many nutrients
For questions please e-mail our garden experts at firstname.lastname@example.org
No, it doesn’t mean growing your own lasagna
Lasagna gardening is a no-dig, no-till organic gardening method that results in rich, fluffy soil with very little work from the gardener. It means that you will not have to lift any sod to create a new garden. The name “lasagna gardening” has nothing to do with what you’ll be growing in this garden. It refers to the method of building the garden, which is, essentially, adding layers of organic materials that will “cook down” over time, resulting in rich, fluffy soil that will help your plants thrive. You are also letting all of the earthworms do the work needed. Also known as “sheet composting,” lasagna gardening is great for the environment, because you’re using your yard and kitchen waste and essentially composting it in place to make a new garden. Please see diagram below for more details
One of the best things about lasagna gardening is how easy it is. You don’t have to remove existing sod and weeds. You don’t have to double dig. In fact, you don’t have to work the soil at all. The first layer of your lasagna garden consists of either brown corrugated cardboard or three layers of newspaper laid directly on top of the grass or weeds in the area you’ve selected for your garden. Wet this layer down to keep everything in place and start the decomposition process. The grass or weeds will break down fairly quickly because they will be smothered by the newspaper or cardboard, as well as by the materials you’re going to layer on top of them. This layer also provides a dark, moist area to attract earthworms that will loosen up the soil as they tunnel through it.
Anything you’d put in a compost pile, you can put into a lasagna garden. The materials you put into the garden will break down, providing nutrient-rich, crumbly soil in which to plant. The following materials are all perfect for lasagna gardens:
There is some importance to the methods you use to build your lasagna garden. You’ll want to alternate layers of “browns” such as fall leaves, shredded newspaper, peat, and pine needles with layers of “greens” such as vegetable scraps, garden trimmings, and grass clippings. In general, you want your “brown” layers to be about twice as deep as your “green” layers, but there’s no need to get finicky about this. Just layer browns and greens, and a lasagna garden will result. Ideally, what you want at the end of your layering process is a two-foot tall, layered bed. You’ll be amazed at how much this will shrink down in a few short weeks
You can make a lasagna garden at any time of year. Fall is an optimum time for many gardeners because of the amount of organic materials you can get for free thanks to fallen leaves and general yard waste from cleaning up the rest of the yard and garden. You can let the lasagna garden sit and break down all winter. By spring, it will be ready to plant in with a minimum of effort. Also, fall rains and winter snow will keep the materials in your lasagna garden moist, which will help them break down faster.
If you choose to make a lasagna garden in spring or summer, you will need to consider adding more “soil-like” amendments to the bed, such as peat or topsoil, so that you can plant in the garden right away. If you make the bed in spring, layer as many greens and browns as you can, with layers of finished compost, peat, or topsoil interspersed in them. Finish off the entire bed with three or four inches of finished compost or topsoil, and plant. The bed will settle some over the season as the layers underneath decompose.
While you will be maintaining a lasagna garden the same way you would care for any other garden, you will find that caring for a lasagna garden is less work-intensive. You can expect:
Lasagna gardening is fun, easy, and allows you to make new gardens at a much faster rate than the old double-digging method. Now your only problem will be finding plants to fill all of those new gardens!
If you are up with the latest gardening magazines and garden blogs you probably have been reading about one of the “hottest trends” in gardening – “fusion gardening”.
Even though they call it a new trend, the ideas behind it are anything but new ideas. Gardeners have been using some of these practices for generations. Unfortunately, over time, we have gotten away from working with Mother Nature instead of against her. Not that I feel that I need to be in with the latest trends, but Fusion gardening does make a whole lot of sense.
Fusion landscaping works in harmony with the natural conditions of your property. It blends or fuses together traditional garden design with sound ecological practices such as water-retaining features.
Right now, as you dream of warm days and evenings, and how you would like to use your outdoor space — and what it might look like — you’re likely considering where you will eat, relax, enjoy a recreation area and even where you will provide storage. Fusion garden designs incorporate all of that into the plan that also manages storm water, attracts pollinators and creates space for composting.
These are some of the practices that I would like us to take a look at today.
If you’re looking for a landscape filled with good looking, easy-to-maintain plants that are well adapted to our climate, then native plant material may be your best bet.
With a little planning and careful selection of plants, anyone can have a native plant landscape that works in harmony with the environment, provides a haven for native wildlife, and is attractive in the most urban of settings. Going Native can be done in small steps; you don’t have to replant your entire yard all at once. Instead, you can start small by replacing an exotic tree with a native one, by making a small area of your yard into a native plant garden, or by replacing a section of turf with a bed of native plants. Any piece of your property that you maintain in native vegetation or convert back to native plants can help offset the habitat losses from development and the spread of invasive plants
What is a Native Plant? Native plants (also called indigenous plants) are plants that have evolved over thousands of years in a particular region. They have adapted to the geography, hydrology, and climate of that region. Native plants occur in communities, that is, they have evolved together with other plants. As a result, a community of native plants provides habitat for a variety of native wildlife species such as songbirds and butterflies. A native plant is defined as any species that existed before European colonization.
Why Should You Use Native Plants? Native plants provide a beautiful, hardy, drought resistant, low maintenance landscape while benefiting the environment. Native plants, once established, save time and money by eliminating or significantly reducing the need for fertilizers, pesticides, water and lawn maintenance equipment.
Native plants do not require as much fertilizer. Vast amounts of fertilizers are applied to lawns. Excess phosphorus and nitrogen (the main components of fertilizers) run off into lakes and rivers causing excess algae growth. This depletes oxygen in our waters, harms aquatic life and interferes with recreational uses.
Native plants require fewer pesticides than lawns. Nationally, over 70 million pounds of pesticides are applied to lawns each year. Pesticides run off lawns and can contaminate rivers and lakes. People and pets in contact with chemically treated lawns can be exposed to pesticides.
Native plants require less water. The deep root systems of many native plants increase the soil’s capacity to store water. Native plants can significantly reduce water runoff and, consequently, flooding.
Native plants help reduce air pollution. Natural landscapes do not require mowing. Lawns, however, must be mowed regularly. Gas powered garden tools emit 5% of the nation’s air pollution. Forty million lawnmowers consume 200 million gallons of gasoline per year. One gas-powered lawnmower emits 11 times the air pollution of a new car for each hour of operation. Excessive carbon from the burning of fossil fuels contributes to global warming. Native plants sequester, or remove, carbon from the air.
Native plants provide shelter and food for wildlife. Native plants attract a variety of birds, butterflies, and other wildlife by providing diverse habitats and food sources. Closely mowed lawns are of little use to most wildlife.
Native plants promote biodiversity and stewardship of our natural heritage. In the U.S., approximately 20 million acres of lawn are cultivated, covering more land than any single crop. Native plants are a part of our natural heritage. Natural landscaping is an opportunity to re-establish diverse native plants, thereby inviting the birds and butterflies back home.
Native plants save money. A study by Applied Ecological Services (Brodhead, WI) of larger properties estimates that over a 20 year period, the cumulative cost of maintaining a prairie or a wetland totals $3,000 per acre versus $20,000 per acre for non-native turf grasses.
Native plants lowers your maintenance. Native plants are survivors. They tend to be more cold hardy and more adaptable than most exotics.
Native plants help hold the soil in place helps prevent soil erosion. Because of their deep and rapid growing root systems, native plants work well to retain soil on slopes or difficult planting areas.
Native plants provide beauty. Many native plants produce showy flowers, abundant fruits and seeds, and brilliant fall foliage. By planting native plants, you will have a beautiful yard that is friendly to wildlife.
Native plants adapt better to poor soil conditions
For additional questions talk to our garden experts at Mori Gardens
(905)468-7863 email@example.com www.MoriGardens.com
Now Available at Mori Gardens
A fully organic, vertical, self-contained growing environment for over 50 plants in a 2’ x 2’ space with amazing results.
The award-winning Garden Tower is made from 100% recyclable food-grade plastics (no BPA, plasticizers, etc.) in a patented design that will produce nutrient-dense, fully organic veggies for at least a decade. Each Garden Tower takes about 20 minutes to assemble, then can be filled with an organic soil mixture, and you’re ready to plant.
A Garden Tower can be operated as a self-sustaining ecosystem by feeding compost and worms into the central tube, or alternatively, you can augment the soil with an organic fertilizer. Whatever your preference, the Garden Tower makes an ideal environment for abundant growth with minimal weeding required.
The patented award winning Garden Tower 2 grows plants vertically, enabling you to grow 50 plants or more in just 4 square feet making it the ultimate space-saving gardening container! The design easily rotates 360 degrees for optimal lighting and convenient watering. The Garden Tower 2 also supports a much wider variety of large vegetables that cannot be grown in other container-type gardens including cabbages, broccoli, squash, zucchini, cucumber, and melons. With supplemental lighting the Garden Tower 2 can even be used indoors for year-round production.
The Garden Tower 2 is injection molded using food grade (FDA approved) high-density polyethylene (HDPE) components. The plastic contains no BPA, PVC, phthalates, or other substances suspected to be toxic, cause disease, or disrupt hormones disruption. HDPE was chosen because it is a pure hydrogen-carbon plastic which is made from only high-purity food-grade resin. The additives for colour and UV protection meet the same special FDA standards for food contact.
The 50 plant Garden Tower 2 can easily be maintained from a chair or wheelchair, making it ideal for seniors. Not only does vertical gardening make the most sense for this demographic, but having the ability to rotate gives the senior gardener an easy method to manage their fresly grown produce.
Ideal for conservation, while maximizing yield and convenience. Gravity pulls water down, nourishing the plant roots. Excess water collects in the bottom drawer, collection nurients that can be reused. Water savings of 90% have been reported in high-heat zones and in arrid, high-altitude desert regions with poor or sandy soils.
The “Ultimate Patio Farm” for porches, balconies, & rooftops
Nearly 50% of the worlds population lives in cities. For Urban dwellers wishing to garden, the lack of available space and uncontaminated soils are growing concern. The Garden Tower 2 is an ideal solution for today’s urban balconies, rooftops, and courtyards.
When asked why consumers don’t garden more, 45% of all households responded that gardening takes too much work or too much time. The Garden Tower 2 requires a minimum or time and work. It’s compact design allows it to be placed just about anywhere that will get at least 6 hours of sun a day and, with a rotating base you can adjust it to ensure adequate light on all sides.
Garden Tower Review (click below)
Peggy offers impressions from planting a Garden Tower 2 by Garden Tower Project. This review emphasizes the accessibility of the Garden Tower for organic gardening. The rotating vertical design offers advantages for seniors such as no weeding, greater access in small spaces, light management, reduced physical stress and more.
The Garden Tower 2 is ideal for use in commercial growing operations, enabling you to grow more product in a smaller amount of space and with fewer resources. Please inquire regarding multiple units.
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(905)468-7863 Info@MoriGardens.com 1709 Niagara Stone Rd.
I am not a seasoned gardener. In fact, after leaving city life behind, I’m facing the chore of creating a front garden and backyard living space in our two-year-old home, where all we’ve got by way of landscaping is some sod and a skinny little tree at the side of the road. Up until now, my green thumb has only ever been used to plunk cheerful annuals into balcony containers.
Enter Joanne Young, Garden Designer at Mori Gardens, who kindly walked me through the overwhelm of planning an outdoor space. She’s honed the process into a few easy steps that even a city gal like me can manage.
Take a tour. See your space from a new perspective. Identify problems: drainage issues, privacy needs, ugly views. Which plants are keepers? Which should
go? Check paths and walkways for repairs. Consider access. For example, herb gardens work nicely when they are close to the kitchen.
Use of Space. A weekend coffee on the porch with the paper. Outdoor entertaining. Space for kids to play, and help tend the garden. Will you grow food? Create a sanctuary for birds, bees and butterflies? Are you low-maintenance, or do you love a challenge?
Make a wish list. Include every element you’d love in your oasis. Dream big, and see how your outdoor space can evolve over time.
Consider budget. Divide your list into stages you can tackle each year. Take into account the most economical use of your resources. For example, if you need brickwork for a shed, a pathway, and a patio, it may be more affordable to tackle all of the brickwork at once than to hire someone for each job.
Hone your style. Japanese, English Cottage, Woodland…these were terms I’d heard, but was hard pressed to define. Pore through magazines, Pinterest, and sites like Houzz.com. Collect images that appeal to you, and you’ll notice common themes emerge.
Use the Five Senses of Gardening. Joanne’s key to beautiful garden design includes sense of entry (invites you in to see more),
welcome (equate the space with relaxation), enclosure (defines space, creates shade and privacy), place (compliments the architecture of your home), and a sense of flow (lines direct the eye around the garden).
Draw a bubble diagram. This rough sketch of your space is ideally drawn to scale. Add existing elements, and then allocate ‘bubbles’ to plot new features. Play around before making permanent decisions. Note sun and shady spots, and experiment with lines.
Make a plant list. Remember that you can purchase smaller versions of the plants you love and let them grow in. Other considerations include maintenance, problem areas (turn them into features!), your hardiness zone, seasonal transitions, sunlight, and colour.
I’ve got everything I need to start dreaming up my backyard sanctuary. If you’re still intimidated by tackling an overhaul on your own, book in with a Mori Gardens designer. They offer a no obligation appointment to find the service that’s right for you.
The spring and summer are the hottest times in real estate. I too have recently found myself in the market for a new home. While looking for my dream home, I made some observations that I thought may be of interest to those of you selling your current property, and even those of you who find yourself in the same boat as me.
I don’t claim to be an expert by any stretch of the imagination, and while I do work at Mori Gardens I still have so much to learn about trees, plants and all things garden. But, what I ‘can’ speak to, is the way that a prospective home’s garden, and curb appeal make me feel, when considering the purchase of my new home.
One of the first things that I will say, is that I’m a bit of a nut about trees; which may not apply to everyone, but my poor realtor will attest to this fact, and can tell you about the time that I almost purchased a home, but then backed out because it didn’t have enough trees. Thankfully, I must have some other redeeming qualities, as my tree obsession didn’t ruin our friendship.
London Plane trees are one of my favorite trees, followed closely by a tri colored beech, and the bigger the better. Which leads me to my first observation, and a fact verified by many a garden design expert; mature trees add value to your home, both financial and emotional. For some people, and I include myself included in this group, an old large tree on the property brings a sense of serenity and all things nature and character. Obviously, the tree needs to be in good shape, not invading your piping or cracking your foundation, and not in danger of falling onto your potential new property.
But it’s not just about the trees. A home owner who has taken the time to tidy up their garden, even just adding mulch and a couple of annuals, shows that they care about their home. This care and attention to detail, more often than not translates into a well looked after inside as well, and says a great deal about the overall condition of the house’s interior. For those avid gardeners who are selling their home, walking into a property that has a backyard, that is truly an oasis… ,for me, takes a property that I may have overlooked, to a genuine candidate.
I looked at a couple of houses outside of my ideal location, and what initially seemed to be an exercise in futility, became an exercise in learning and objectivity. I learned that a beautiful garden can actually take a ‘nice’ home, in an ‘okay’ area, into a wonderful option and true contender.
For me, there is nothing nicer that driving up the street towards my home and seeing it appear on the horizon, looking well-manicured, full of colour and waiting for me to come home to admire it. For the prospective seller, what value does this kind of impression have on a potential buyer? Priceless, I’d say!
Looking at selling your home or a makeover to your current garden?
We can help you add value, reduce heating and AC bills as well as create wind protection and privacy.
Create a Custom Garden Design with our expert garden team to use as a project plan or to have quoted by recommended landscapers.
(905) 468 – 7863
There is always great confusion when it comes to pruning hydrangeas. Before you begin to prune your hydrangea you first need to know what type of hydrangea that you have.
Basically there are two pruning groups for hydrangeas:
Pruning Method 1 is for mophead and lace-cap hydrangeas or otherwise known as Hydrangea macrophylla. These hydrangeas typically have large, round, ball-like clusters of pink or blue flowers with just a couple of varieties being white blooming. Some cultivars of Hydrangea macrophylla have flat lacy flower clusters with the centre florets remaining sterile while the outer ring of florets being open. These are known as lace-caps hydrangeas. Some of the better known cultivars are: ‘Forever Pink’, ‘Nikko Blue’, ‘Bluebird’, ‘Marie’s Silver’, ‘Masja’, and the new Cityline series.
What you need to know about most mophead hydrangeas is that they bloom off of old wood. This means that next year’s flower bud is actually formed in late summer on this year’s current wood. If you were to prune back plants to the ground or if your plant suffered severe winter kill and died back to the ground, all new growth will emerge from the ground and will not produce any flower buds that season. So flower buds will only be produced on stems that were present from the previous year. So the key to promote flowering is to preserve as many branches above ground as possible.
The only reasons for pruning mophead hydrangeas are:
The one exception to this method of pruning in the newer ‘Endless Summer’ series of Hydrangea macrophylla including cultivars like: ‘The Original’, ‘Twist-n-Shout’ and ‘Blushing Bride’. This series of mophead hydrangeas have the unique characteristic of blooming on both the current season’s growth as well as old growth, providing the advantage of a longer bloom period. On average, they bloom for 10 to 12 weeks longer than other mophead varieties. The Endless Summer Hydrangeas can be treated like the other cultivars as described in Method 1 above, with very little pruning, or can be pruned back hard and still bloom. If you do prune it back hard or if it suffers severe die back, it will just be blooming off of new wood so it will begin blooming a bit later than normal and for not as long of period.
Also use Method 1 when pruning Oakleaf Hydrangea – Hydrangea querciflolia. This type of hydrangea has very large, oak-like leaves that turn maroon-red in fall and has large panicles of white flowers in summer that age to dusty-pink in fall.
Hydrangea arborescens (Annabelle Hydranageas) and Hydrangea paniculata (PeeGee Hydrangeas) fall into the same pruning method. Annabelle-type hydrangeas have large, snowball-like, white or pink flowers and include cultivars such as: ‘Annabelle’, ‘Incrediball’ and ‘Invincibelle. PeeGee Hydrangeas have large, cone-like panicles of white flowers that age to a dusty, rose-pink in colour. Some cultivars of PeeGee Hydrangea are: ‘Lime Light’, ‘Little Lime’, ‘Pink Diamond’, ‘Kyushu’, ‘Pinky Winky’, ‘Quick Fire’ and ‘Bobo’.
Booth of these families of hydrangeas bloom on new wood only. Therefore, they can take a heavy, early spring pruning.
Even though they can tolerate a heavy pruning, they do not necessarily require pruning every year. You can just give them a light cutting back in spring to clean up the previous year’s blooms and tidy up the plants. Remove any dead, damaged or crossing branches first. Then reduce size of plant to desired height.
Annabelle Hydrangeas can be pruned back to just several inches above the ground and still bloom that same season. It may help to prune Annabelle to about 18″-24″ tall rather than cutting it to the ground every year. This will allow the stems to thicken a little each year, becoming stouter and better able to support the other branches and blooms. In addition, the heads will be more plentiful but slightly smaller (not so small that you will be disappointed). The slightly smaller heads will be less likely to droop.
For Hydrangea Availability & Questions visit us at
Mori Gardens, 1709 Niagara Stone Rd., NOTL, ON
or contact our Garden Experts at info@MoriGardens.com & (905)468-7863